How to Prime Goodman Furnace Condensate Trap

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Modern and energy-efficient furnaces typically utilize dual heat exchangers for collecting more heat from the combustion than regular models. These furnaces will also generate much cooler flue gases than the mid-efficiency or traditional models due to its impressive ability. The exhaust gases are so cold that venting to the outside is possible through a plastic pipe. The venting efforts are less complicated, but the condensation will be more also.

Do you have to prime the condensate trap?

It’s mandatory to prime the condensate trap before your furnace starts up. The priming is fundamental for appropriate furnace drainage upon startup and reduces the risk for flue gases to come out through the drain system.

What’s the most correct method to prime the condensate trap?

You should begin with entirely filling with water (priming) the condensate drain trap assembly; make sure that you do it before turning on your furnace. Don’t undermine the importance of removing the drain hose from the exhauster assembly elbow/drain fitting for a while; it’s a mandatory step for proper filling of the condensate trap.

Use a cup of water and port it down the hose. The water will start to run out of the condensate drain trap outlet after it’s full. Refastening the vent drain hose to the drain fitting/ exhauster assembly elbow is also an important thing to do.

The condensate drainage configuration has to have a vent. One-inch rise or less will be necessary along the drain tube’s horizontal track for creating a vapor lock. The vapor lock will reduce the risk of condensation to drain away without control, affecting the proper operation of the furnace.

You may also run the air conditioner to produce enough condensate for filling the trap. However, it would help if you didn’t run the fan continuously until the trap isn’t primed. An always running fan will not let the condensate to get into the trap as it will suck the air right back up the drain line.

Some tips to remember for proper use of the condensate trap

When the indoor coil or indoor unit is placed above the ceiling, you may install an emergency drain pan right under the coil/unit for protecting the ceiling. You should also use a different drain line outside to complete in an easy to see location. This way, when water drips from an emergency drain line, you will notice an issue before the ceiling comes down ultimately. It’s possible to improve proper operation by installing a float switch in the emergency drain pan.

Every unit should come with a trap; otherwise, water will collect at the bottom of the cabinet when the blower is operating, which shortens the furnace’s lifespan and rusts the cabinet.

It’s also important that the drain pan outlet is mounted on the pan’s low side. When the coil is mounted with the drain outlet pitched upwards, problems will develop. When the unit isn’t mounted with correct supports, the unit may sag, so water will overflow the drain pan inside the unit, rusting the unit cabinet’s bottom and the emergency drain pan.

Pay attention so that the primary drain outlet and overflow outlet don’t mix up on the coil. The overflow outlet should be higher and comes with restriction mounted inside the drain outlet.

Most gas furnaces come with the cooling coil mounted on the blower’s positive pressure side. Even if the risk for clogging is lower, they still pose a risk for various problems. Installation in crawled spaces without traps is widespread, making the hot/cold supply air blow out into unconditioned areas right through the condensate drain.

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